HTX Shutters · Houston, Texas
Plantation Shutter Questions, Answered.
Every question we’ve been asked in 9 years of building and installing custom wood plantation shutters across Greater Houston — answered directly by the owners. Pick a section below or search the full library.
Top 10 Questions
10 answersYes. HTX Shutters is locally owned and operated in Houston, Texas. We started 9 years ago as a small woodworking operation in a garage in the Heights, and the owners still personally handle consultations, measuring, contracting, and final installation. We typically spend 4+ hours in each customer’s home over the course of a project, so the service stays personal and is backed by our reputation.
Wood plantation shutters beat poly (polyvinyl/polywood) shutters in three ways: larger panels, custom paint colors, and better long-term durability.
- Larger panels. Poly panels max out around 28″ wide, so a standard 36″ window needs two panels and loses roughly 15% of the view. Our wood panels span 36″ in a single panel (up to 47″ by exception) for an open view and a clean, modern look.
- Custom colors. Poly comes in only three whites. Our wood shutters include any Sherwin-Williams white, light beige, or light gray, paint-matched to your window trim for a true built-in look.
- Weight and durability. Poly is heavier than wood, which strains hinges and causes sagging, and it can turn brittle and crack over time — some poly components are even hollow.
Most customers find HTX Shutters’ wood shutter pricing equal to or better than Sunburst Shutters — our largest poly-focused competitor — and significantly cheaper than 3 Day Blinds and resellers through Lowe’s, Home Depot, and Costco. Our quotes are accurate and rarely change after they’re set, and the styling features other companies bill as extras are standard with us. We’ll also try to match or beat any competing quote you’ve received.
Yes. Indoor humidity in an air-conditioned Houston home runs 30–50%, well within what wood handles — the same reason homes are full of wood floors, trim, stairs, and cabinets. Outdoor humidity (60–90%) never reaches a conditioned interior; your A/C continuously pulls moisture out of the air. We even install shutters in garages and attics without issue. Claims that wood can’t survive Houston humidity usually come from companies that only sell poly shutters.
A common 35″ × 59″ second-story window runs about $375–$475 per shutter, and a common 35″ × 70″ first-story window runs about $450–$550, depending on order volume — with installation, taxes, and fees included. Older Houston homes usually have smaller (cheaper) windows; newer homes tend to have larger (more expensive) ones.
HTX Shutters holds a 5.0-star Google rating with 140+ reviews, plus 5.0 ratings on HomeAdvisor, Houzz, and Yelp. To date we have zero 1-, 2-, 3-, or 4-star reviews — we protect that record by keeping promises and delivering quality shutters on time.
Yes — every installation is performed by HTX Shutters’ dedicated in-house team. No contractors or third parties, ever. Two or three of our installation specialists handle each job, and the crew has completed more than 10,000 installations. We consider installation quality just as important as build quality.
Every HTX shutter is built in Houston, Texas, at our manufacturing facility near I-10 and Baker Road. Local manufacturing means that if a dimension or specification ever needs correcting, we fix it fast — no overseas lead times, and you’re supporting a local business.
Installation is typically 4–6 weeks after four steps are complete:
- Quote accepted (call, text, or email us)
- Detailed measuring completed (usually within 2–3 business days of acceptance)
- 50% deposit provided (usually the same day as measuring)
- Order confirmation agreement signed (usually within 1 day of measuring)
HTX Shutters offers a limited lifetime warranty for the original purchaser (non-transferable to future homeowners). It covers:
- Louvers will not warp from sunlight or normal moisture in an air-conditioned home
- Paint will not crack, peel, or show bleed-through
- All panel joints remain solid
- Louvers hold their position when set upright
- Hidden tilt rods will not pull free from louvers
- Front tilt rods: 6 months of coverage on staples pulling free, to rule out manufacturing defects
Pricing
15 answersYes — we try to price-match. Send a file or photo of your competing quote and we’ll respond within 24–48 hours to try to match or beat it.
Generally $25–$35+ per square foot, with installation and all taxes and fees included. Unlike most companies, we only charge for the actual window-opening size — not the framed shutter size, which is often ~15% larger — so a competitor’s “lower” rate is frequently applied to inflated square footage. Final pricing varies with window count (4 windows prices differently than 40), job complexity, and location.
For a 2,500–3,500 sq ft Houston home with 15–25 windows, expect roughly $8,000–$11,000 for our wood plantation shutters. Homes range from 5 to 50+ windows, so window count — not home size alone — drives the total.
Measure-yourself online shutters save money up front but commonly fail on three fronts: measurement accuracy, option selection, and installation. We periodically replace failed DIY orders.
- Measurement accuracy. Well-fitting shutters require measuring to 1/16″. We use a professional laser measuring tool; a household tape measure makes that precision hard.
- Options overload. Online configurators offer dozens of choices with no expert guidance — pick the wrong frame type and the shutters may simply not fit.
- Installation. There’s a difference between a shutter fitting a window and functioning in it. Window sills are almost never level, so proper shimming and adjustment is needed for panels to swing freely.
If you do go this route, study the options carefully and take your time measuring and installing.
Yes. Unless windows are added or modified, the quoted price is the final price — installation and all taxes and fees included. We pride ourselves on fast, accurate quotes we can honor.
Yes — every window is listed and priced separately, so you can drop individual windows and see exact totals. Removing a few windows doesn’t change per-window pricing; large quantity changes may require an updated quote.
No — nearly all styling options are free and included: louver size, tilt-control style, custom light paint color, split-tilt, and frame choice. The three items that cost extra are outside-mount frames, dark paint colors, and bi-fold hinge systems.
The Shutter Calculator gives an approximate range — final pricing shifts with window count, job complexity, and location. For a sharper estimate, email hello@htxshutters.com with dimensions or photos, or schedule a free in-home consultation if you have 5+ windows.
Our shutters are routinely cheaper than 3 Day Blinds while being higher quality and delivered faster. Send us your competing quote and we’ll do our best to match or beat it.
Dark colors require 3–5 coats of paint over a white primer for full coverage, versus a single coat for whites, so the extra finishing labor carries a surcharge. We are not offering stained shutters at this time.
Temporary shades aren’t part of our standard offering, but we can install them for about $30–$40 per standard window — measured and cut accurately to avoid large light gaps.
No — we do not currently offer financing or financed payment plans.
A 50% deposit initiates your order. It’s payable by personal check, ACH transfer, or Zelle with no fees; debit or credit cards add a 2.99% service charge.
Personal checks are most common; we also accept cashier’s checks, Zelle, ACH bank transfer, and debit/credit cards. Card payments carry a 2.99% service fee to cover transaction costs.
A typical single-louver repair runs $75–$100, depending on location and paint color. We repair shutters built by HTX Shutters only — not shutters from other manufacturers.
Styling
20 answersThe 4.5″ louver is our most popular size, used in about 65–70% of homes. It has 33% fewer louvers than the 3.5″, giving a more open view and a modern, contemporary look. The 3.5″ (30–35% of homes) reads more traditional. We also offer a 2.5″ louver, mainly for the shallow window casings common in the Heights, Bellaire, and West University — though its look is close to the 2″ wood blinds we typically replace.
Split-tilt divides a shutter’s louvers into a top set and a bottom set that operate independently — close the bottom for privacy while the top stays open for sunlight. Common configurations are 50/50 or 33% top / 67% bottom, and unlike many companies, our design requires no fixed 3–4″ divider rail eating into your view. The split can also be aligned to a window’s horizontal break, most commonly about 30″ up from the bottom.
Decide window by window — not every window needs split-tilt. We commonly use 33/67 in bedrooms for extra privacy and 50/50 where privacy matters less; small windows, sidelights, and doors usually skip it. Seven factors worth weighing: window height, height off the floor, privacy needs, sitting vs. standing rooms, occupant heights, neighboring homes’ vantage points, and existing privacy from trees or fences.
No — split-tilt is free on any window. So are louver size, light Sherwin-Williams paint colors, tilt-rod style, and frame selection.
Inside-mount frames, for about 95% of installations. Inside-mount frames wrap the edge of the window casing, protrude less from the wall, and look integrated and built-in — though they block a window’s tilt-in cleaning function. Outside-mount frames sit on the drywall face, protrude further, and preserve tilt-in function; we recommend them mainly for 2+ story homes where upper windows are hard to clean. Some competitors push outside mounts simply because they’re easier to measure for and install.
Four inside-mount profiles and two outside-mount profiles, ranging from classic to modern:
- Transitional (inside, 2.125″) — classic elegance; suits detailed baseboard, door trim, or crown molding
- Modern (inside, 2″) — for simpler trim that still carries some detail
- Craftsman (inside, 2.25″) — for completely flat trim with sharp 90° angles
- Southwestern (inside, 2″) — for thin or round-edged flat moldings
- Deco (outside, 1.8″) — five-step beaded face; blends with traditional, ornate decor
- Flat (outside, 1.8″) — completely flat face for simple, contemporary decor
We build true arched plantation shutters with functional louvers all the way through the curve, framed by matching curved frames. We find this more timeless and elegant than sunburst/radial-style shutters.
Our favorites are Sherwin-Williams “High Reflective White” SW7757 and “Extra White” SW7006 — clean, bright, cool whites. Customer favorites also include “Snowbound” SW7004, “Pure White” SW7005, and the warmer “Alabaster” SW7008. Every order includes one custom light color (any Sherwin-Williams white, light beige, or light gray) in industrial-grade paint. When torn between two shades, go lighter — “lighter is brighter,” and it lifts the whole room.
A low-gloss sheen closest to satin. Shutters present a large surface that loves to bounce light, so low gloss cuts glare — and it hides minor surface imperfections better than a medium sheen would.
Every added panel costs roughly 15% of your view, so we build windows up to 36″ wide as one panel and up to 72″ as two panels (single panels to 47″ by exception). Prefer the multi-panel look? We’re happy to build it — additional panels are $95/panel on standard window sizes.
No — nearly every home ends up with a natural mix. Windows under 36″ default to one panel and windows over 36″ to two or more, and because individual panel widths stay similar across configurations, the result looks balanced and preserves the view. If you choose two panels on a sub-36″ window, keep that configuration consistent on same-size windows in the room or line of sight.
It’s roughly a 50/50 split among our customers. We usually suggest leaving transoms open — natural light is a good thing — unless you have a direct privacy or sun-control need.
Yes, commonly — with one design note. Door shutters need about 3″ of frame depth to clear the moving louvers, so they look best on doors viewed head-on rather than from a side vantage point. That said, few better window-covering alternatives exist for doors.
Yes — about half of our customers do. The one rule: curtain hardware brackets can’t cover the first 2″ border around the top of the window opening.
We build black shutters, but recommend them with eyes open. Dark paint carries a surcharge (3–5 coats for full coverage), any scratch quickly reveals the white primer beneath, and black shows dust far more than any other color — expect a constant cleaning battle.
Because the front tilt rod is the most common failure point on any plantation shutter. We steer most customers to our hidden/rear tilt system, which has no maintenance or longevity issues and is warrantied for life; front-tilt staple separation is covered for 12 months. We mainly use front tilt rods in historic areas like the Heights and Bellaire, where the traditional look fits.
No — we believe natural light is healthy and necessary. Cover only the windows with a real privacy or sun-control need. Upper transoms (above living room and primary bedroom windows, or the front door) are the most common judgment call, and it’s a personal one.
No — and that’s deliberate. Skipping showroom overhead keeps our prices low and competitive. Instead, we bring large sample shutters and frame pieces to your free in-home consultation so you can see every styling option in your own light.
Wide openings — we regularly build for ~94″, ~105″, even 142″ windows — become 3-, 4-, 5-, or 6-panel configurations. We divide the frame with 1″ T-posts aligned to your window’s natural breaks, so the shutter layout mirrors the window itself.
No — 4.5″ louvers look great on small windows. With 33% fewer slats than the 3.5″, they maximize view and light exactly where glass is limited. A 3.5″ can appear slightly more proportional, but at the cost of more obstruction.
Functionality & Build
28 answersPrimarily basswood and paulownia — the two specialty hardwood species best suited to plantation shutters. Both are lightweight with strong tangential strength and good moisture resistance. Common lumber like pine or poplar is too heavy and leads to sagging, so we don’t use it.
Standard single panels up to 36″ wide — nearly 50% wider than the 28″ poly-shutter limit — and up to 47″ by exception. That width keeps windows as one panel where poly forces two, preserving ~15% more view per avoided panel. At 47″, expect two minor trade-offs: possible slight lifting when swinging the panel, and slight waviness in the longer wood — both rarely noticeable.
Yes — the louvers operate through the entire curve. The one difference: louvers in the arched section rotate just past 90°, slightly less range than louvers on a rectangular shutter.
As close as louver math allows. We distribute the louver count to match your requested split (50/50, 33/67, and so on) as precisely as possible; an exact percentage isn’t always mathematically achievable, but we get within a louver.
No — our engineered design is stable without the fixed 3–4″ “divider rail” many manufacturers require, so no dead section blocks your view. The one case where we may suggest one: split-tilt paired with front/center tilt rods, where a divider keeps the upper and lower rods from colliding.
Always. Even if you sent dimensions for your initial quote, we re-measure every window with a green laser measuring tool before manufacturing. Accurate dimensions are the foundation of great-fitting shutters.
Yes — every shutter is hinged on one side and swings open for full window access. The main exception is above kitchen sinks, where a faucet would block the swing: there we use faux hinges plus magnets in all four corners, so the panel lifts in and out for cleaning.
Up to nearly 180° — almost flush with the wall — if the wall is perfectly plumb. On an angled wall, the panel drifts away until it finds its natural resting point.
Grab the front/center of any louver and turn it — the whole set follows. On front-tilt shutters you can also use the rod itself, but handle it gently: the front tilt rod is the most commonly repaired part of any shutter.
Rarely. Our inside-mount frames are 1.125″ wide — typically narrower than the sash (perimeter border) of the window itself — so they seldom intrude on your glass.
Full closure is in the upward position — the front edge of each louver points up, and the top louver seats into a groove (a “rabbet”). Louvers will travel a fair way downward, but with no bottom groove, the downward range is limited.
No. Sagging has two root causes: heavy panels (a plastic/poly problem — wood is lighter) and thin hinges. We use hinges with 0.08″-thick steel, versus the 0.05″ hinges many manufacturers use.
Yes. Our water-based finish will accept another coat of water-based paint from a contractor or a patient DIYer. Fair warning: overlapping louvers make clean spraying genuinely difficult — it takes experience to avoid roughness and overspray.
Wood plantation shutters last 20+ years with proper care. Plastic shutters don’t last forever, despite the assumption — poly often becomes brittle with age, then cracks and breaks.
Only with outside-mount frames. Inside-mount frames block tilt-in function — usually only a real concern on 2+ story homes where upper windows are hard to reach. Most first-floor windows can simply be cleaned from outside.
You deal directly with HTX Shutters. We act as your liaison through the entire warranty repair process, relaying information and scheduling with our manufacturer on your behalf.
Very well — most service calls are accidental damage (a football to a louver, someone falling into a panel). The two known wear points on any shutter design:
- Front-tilt-rod staples can back out under heavy handling, separating a louver from the rod — covered by our warranty for 12 months. Handle front tilt rods with care.
- Louver nylon pins can develop a hairline crack under excess stress, letting a louver hang loose. When it happens in routine use — usually in the first few weeks — we typically cover it under warranty.
Chair rail is trimmed flush at the window, and the newly exposed edge is painted to match the shutter for a finished look.
Yes — as long as the shutter’s structural integrity is intact. The stiles (1.1″-thick verticals) and rails (0.75″-thick horizontals) are sturdy and rarely damaged. Louvers, at 0.4″ thick, are the vulnerable part — and the good news is they can be replaced on-site without removing the shutter. Accidental damage isn’t warranty-covered; louver replacement service starts at $75.
Yes. Our in-home samples close exactly the way your installed shutters will. On taller shutters, expect to turn one louver and then give a light “sweep” or touch elsewhere to fully seat every louver.
Reasonably dark — but not blackout. You’ll see thin horizontal lines of light between louvers, without light flooding into the room. Overall darkness depends on the number of windows. For total darkness, pair shutters with blackout shades or curtains.
A meaningful amount — shutters are solid wood, 0.4″ thick at their thinnest point, and wood is a natural insulator (wood fiber has served as attic insulation for decades). We’re still running experiments to quantify the exact benefit, but customers regularly tell us their electric bills dropped after installation — welcome news in Houston heat.
Often — it depends on your blind hardware depth and your window opening depth. Our most common Z-frame occupies about 2.5″ of depth with 3.5″ louvers open, or about 3″ with 4.5″ louvers open. Example: a 5″-deep drywall opening leaves ~2.5″ of clearance for blind hardware with 3.5″ louvers (~2″ with 4.5″) to operate while louvers are open. If the blinds only need to run while louvers are closed, even less clearance is required.
No — the opposite. Smaller louvers mean more louvers to cover the same window, and every louver overlap leaks a small amount of light. More gaps = more light.
No — the degree of privacy is comparable across all louver sizes.
Yes. Solid wood at a minimum 0.4″ thickness helps block outside noise — our own testing measured up to a 3 dB (~30%) reduction in ambient noise, though results vary by environment.
Quite possibly!
Our frames occupy the first 1.25″ of the window casing, and most modern security sensors are small enough to clear that with no issue. For crank handles, we cut a rectangular relief into the back of the frame to make room.
Installation
26 answersNo — we install shutters in bathrooms routinely. With normal ventilation-fan use, bathroom humidity stays well within wood’s comfort zone: a Houston home runs 30–50% indoor humidity, rising only 10–15% temporarily after a hot shower.
An organized, respectful crew and a clear handoff. Here’s the flow:
- We arrive within your designated timeslot (and reach out immediately if a prior job runs long — we perform about 5 installs a day).
- Every crew member wears shoe covers to protect your home.
- We do a quick walkthrough, then stage each shutter at its window.
- One installer mounts shutters while the others handle finishing: caulking between frame and sill and concealing every nail hole.
- Handheld vacuums keep each work area clean as we go.
- We finish with a walkthrough to demonstrate operation and confirm everything looks right — final payment is due at completion.
About 1 hour for 1–6 windows, 1.5 hours for 7–14 windows, and 2–3 hours for 15+ windows. Add 30–45 minutes if your order includes inside-mount L-frames.
We offer four timeslots: 9:00–9:30 am, 11 am–2 pm, 12–3 pm, and 1–4 pm. We propose your slot about a week ahead; with 4–5 installs routed per day we can’t guarantee a specific pick, but if the proposed slot doesn’t work we’ll offer an alternative — usually the following week or two.
No — 1 shutter or 50, the timeline is the same. Our sequential manufacturing queue has enough capacity to handle any order size without compromising delivery speed.
We expedite a replacement. Every shutter is custom-built to tight tolerances, and a non-fit occurs on roughly 1–5% of installations. Sometimes the frame can be adjusted on-site; if not, a re-manufactured shutter is typically back on your window within 5–10 business days.
Windows first. About half of window companies install from inside the home — which existing shutters can block — so ordering windows first keeps every option open. Our outside-mount frames may be compatible with inside-installers; confirm with your window company.
We handle these case-by-case — but honestly, a contractor or handyman is usually more cost-effective. Our pricing for nearby locations: about $200 per trip plus $40–$50 per shutter removed or installed, with a $500 minimum (removal and reinstallation are separate trips). Give your contractor these guidelines:
Removal:
- Pull the hinge pins (bullnose or end-cutting pliers) and lift each panel out
- Cut the caulk line between frame bottom and sill (skip for four-sided frames)
- Cut any caulk lines on the frame sides and top
- Locate the caulked nail holes inside the jamb (slide a pencil between frame and drywall to find nails)
- From the rear, cut the nails with an oscillating multi-tool (metal-cutting blade) — non-hinged side first, then hinged side, supporting the frame on the final cuts
- Remove the frame, note the position of any sill shims, and flush-cut the nail remainders
Reinstallation:
- Return shims to their original sill positions and set the frame in the opening
- Drive 3-1/8″ T10 trim-head screws at the top and bottom of the hinge side (screws beat nails for re-installs)
- Re-hang the panel via the hinge pins and check the swing — if the panel contacts the top, tighten the bottom screw or back off the top screw (and vice versa)
- Add screws to the middle of the hinge side, then the non-hinged sides, top, and bottom
- Caulk the bottom between frame and sill, plus the sides if needed
Yes — existing blinds or rollers must come down before installation. Remove them yourself, or we’ll remove and dispose of them for a small fee of $10–$15 per window.
Five steps, about two minutes per window:
- Raise the blinds fully
- Lift off the valance at the top front — it sits on plastic clips
- Pry up the small metal flap on the front of the top-left and top-right brackets
- Tilt the headrail forward, free it from the hardware, and remove the blind
- Unscrew the remaining brackets — two screws per side, Phillips or 1/4″ hex, easiest with a power drill
Yes — removal and disposal typically runs $25–$45 per window. Three honest risks with old-shutter removal: extracting nails and screws can crumble or crack sheetrock, adhered caulk can pull wall paint, and the new shutters may not cover the previous footprint exactly, leaving spots that need touch-up paint. We work to minimize all three.
Usually one of the two holes on each side gets covered by our frames. The remaining hole is only visible when the panel is open and you look up (or from outside at close range), and can be patched and painted after installation.
No. Face-nailing is a shortcut many manufacturers use, and it leaves visible filled holes every ~24″ across the front of your frames. We instead nail through the jamb — the interior surface of the window opening, perpendicular to the wall — and caulk every hole, so the frame face stays clean even with the panels open.
The flat 3/4″ face lines up about 1/8″ behind the front of your window trim’s reveal, which makes for a cleaner caulk line. On windows with shallow depth, the L-frame is partially inset into the trim, with its front half proud of the existing trim.
Photo: standard L-frame positionPhoto: partial-inset L-frame
No weekend installations — but we do offer in-home consultations and detailed measuring sessions on Saturdays and Sundays.
We normally install an order in a single trip — it keeps labor costs (and therefore prices) down. For very large orders of 40+ windows, we’ll evaluate an early partial delivery case-by-case.
We avoid it, for three reasons. Drywall openings are rarely square, so a square shutter shows uneven light gaps all around; without an internal frame there’s little flexibility to level the panel for smooth operation; and magnets — with their strong pull — stress bare drywall. Our internal frames solve all three.
You could — we started exactly that way 9 years ago, in a garage with a handful of power tools. But seasoned woodworkers regularly tell us shutters are among the hardest projects they’ve attempted. If you try it, you’ll want: a compound miter saw, table saw, bandsaw, high-quality 90+ tooth blades (we prefer Forrest), a joinery system (we prefer Festool Domino), a jointer, a planer, a drill press, and an HVLP spray system.
No — we only install shutters built by HTX Shutters. Even with a proper install, we can’t guarantee the fit and finish of another company’s product.
Our preferred method is a built-out spacer on the back of the frame that wraps the tile cleanly — 3/8″ tile gets 3/8″ of added frame depth for a polished look. For very thick tile (0.75″+), we notch the lower frame legs around it instead.
With faux hinges and magnets. When a faucet would interfere with the swing of a sink-window shutter, we magnetize the panel at all four corners so it lifts in and out for cleaning instead of swinging. Faucets with removable heads make this even easier.
Primarily residential — most commonly 2,500–4,500 sq ft Houston homes — but we’ve worked on everything from manufactured homes to penthouse suites, and occasionally unique projects like large senior-care facilities.
Absolutely — many customers do two rounds, some three, and we’ve had customers do four. Each round carries our standard $299 delivery and installation fee, which covers transport and install time for that trip.
Casing depth sets your louver options. Most newer Houston homes have deep casings that accept 2.5″, 3.5″, or 4.5″ louvers. Many homes in the Heights, West University, and Bellaire have shallower casings that limit you to 2.5″ or 3.5″.
15-gauge finishing nails, shot through the inner jamb of the frame — placed toward each corner and every 18–24″ along each side, then filled with caulk so they disappear.
Substantially bowed walls can leave a gap between the wall and the shutter frame. We caulk wherever light leaks through, which finishes best on smooth, light-colored walls. On dark, heavily textured walls, a caulk line can look worse than the gap itself, so we may leave it uncaulked.
Our Company
9 answersJason and Greg started their first job together at age 15, scooping ice cream in Spartanburg, South Carolina — and both landed in Houston in 2015. Jason and Josh studied engineering together at Virginia Tech before Houston, too. There’s an adage about starting a business with friends, but 9 years in, we’ve navigated it without significant issue. Here’s to 9 more.
Yes. The owners of HTX Shutters are involved in every part of the business — administrative work, consultations, measurings, and installations included.
No. HTX Shutters was independently founded in Jason’s Houston garage 9 years ago with one goal: a better shutter-buying experience. The product, the brand, and the reputation were all built from scratch.
We’re in our 9th year of bringing a better plantation shutter buying process to Houston homeowners — helping around 300 homeowners a year, roughly 5% of Houston’s plantation shutter market, among 30–40 competing companies. We let our work and our reviews introduce us, and we hope you’ll give us the chance to show you.
No business can guarantee longevity — but after 9 years, our passion for shutters is as strong as ever, and we plan to keep going for many more. For extra peace of mind: our manufacturing partner has been in business for 22 years, with plans for many more.
A Houston manufacturer that exclusively builds our design, to our specifications. For our first 5 years we manufactured every shutter ourselves as a five-person team — invaluable for learning to design a top-quality shutter, but capped at 3,000–4,000 shutters a year. Three years ago we interviewed 10 local shutter manufacturers and partnered with one with a 22-year track record and 20,000+ homes produced, chosen for their ability to maintain our quality standards.
We compete with roughly 40 plantation shutter companies in the Houston area, including Sunburst Shutters, LJ Custom Shutters, Signature Shutters of Houston, Shutter Source, Katy Plantations, Texas Shutter Company, Texas Shutters Corp, Creative Blinds, Woodlands Shutters & Blinds, Houston Shutter Center, Katy Blinds & Shutters, The Shade Shop, and many others. We believe our balance of quality, service, and price — backed by our 5.0-star reviews — delivers the best value of the group.
Probably! We regularly install plantation shutters in Cypress, Katy, Spring Branch, the Heights, Tomball, Jersey Village, Spring, The Woodlands, Missouri City, Sugar Land, Pearland, Manvel, Humble, and across Greater Houston. Recent project zip codes include: 75078, 77005, 77007, 77008, 77013, 77019, 77022, 77024, 77027, 77031, 77036, 77040, 77041, 77042, 77043, 77044, 77047, 77053, 77055, 77057, 77059, 77064, 77069, 77070, 77075, 77077, 77079, 77080, 77084, 77090, 77093, 77094, 77095, 77096, 77098, 77302, 77304, 77339, 77345, 77346, 77354, 77355, 77362, 77365, 77372, 77373, 77377, 77378, 77379, 77381, 77382, 77384, 77386, 77388, 77389, 77406, 77423, 77429, 77433, 77434, 77437, 77441, 77449, 77450, 77459, 77469, 77477, 77479, 77493, 77494, 77546, 77550, 77573, 77578, 77581, 77583, 77584, and 77979.
Maybe! Call or text us at (832) 839-1235 or email hello@htxshutters.com and we’ll check our records.
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